In a completely alternate direction from the famously surreal essence of Schiaparelli’s past, Creative Director Daniel Roseberry has chosen to put in a more masculine take on couture. Schiaparelli SS21 sees 25 ensembles that boldly marry masculine and feminine aspects in a deviation from the overtly feminine designs that are abundant in every couture runway.
The collection plays with body image and figure. The most notable feature from the line was a black exoskeleton bustier chestplate that creates shiny, rock-hard abs that would make even KJ Apa jealous. This comes right after Kim Kardashian unveiled her Schiaparelli slime green Hulk abs bustier Christmas outfit. The collection sees a similar “power couture” design in the forms of a hot pink minidress, a brown cowhide leather minidress with matching bag, and a metallic gold breastplate and gilded mask with silver piercings.
Furthermore, we see distortions of the bodily form in exaggerated bubble sleeves, large decorative bows, oversized hoods, and overly ruched bikinis. A theme seems to be developing different silhouettes based on use of fabric — utilizing very form-fitting clothes or creating larger silhouettes by gathering fabric. Going further we see Roseberry accessorize models with ear-shaped earrings, eye-shaped glasses, foot-shaped shoes, a jeweled wig, tooth-shaped decolleté and finger covers, each a golden masterpiece. Other prevalent themes throughout the runway accessories are dangling earrings and padlocks.
The overall collection is predominantly neutral in tone, largely drawing on blacks and whites accented by pops of vibrant red, electric blue and shimmering gold coloring. The only look to exist in its pure color form was a long velvet viscose and silk hot pink gown that draped from the earrings to a trailing train. The Schiaparelli ‘Stretch Couture’ gown implements 100,000 Swarovski crystals to create glittering gold, silver and copper patterned illusion when the light hits it. The final look from the collection is an all-white silk crepe dress accompanied by an artisanal metal structure and silk taffeta creating a very flowery illusion behind the model.
Schiaparelli SS21 provides a new form of whimsy and another perspective of their surreal approach to design. Daniel Roseberry has continued to add intrigue to his designs since the beginning of his two-year tenure as Schiaparelli creative director. It will be interesting to see how he will be able to push the envelope in each piece within his collections as he further develops the Schiaparelli brand.